Antarctica 2008
After successfully completing the diving expedition to the North Pole in April 2006, the South Pole expedition was only a matter of time. And so, in February 2008 we were off to Antarctica.
show moreMarch 2008
Remigiusz Baliński
The Arctic (which is the North Pole) and Antarctica (which is the South Pole) are similar for the ubiquitous ice, but apart from that, everything is different. The Arctic is a frozen sea surrounded by some land, while Antarctica is a frozen continent, surrounded by the sea. In the winter the average temperature at the North Pole is -40 Centigrade, and at the South Pole it falls down to -60 Centigrade. Even the ice, characteristic of both, looks quite different. In the Arctic a thick ice coating covers only Greenland, the rest is covered by much thinner one (about 3-4 meters thick, formed by freezing sea water). We were able to cut out 'pools' in it – places from which we descended into the water. It is quite a difference compared to the Antarctica, completely shelled under the ice cover, which reaches up to 4300 metres thick and represents 90% of world’s reserves of fresh water.
It takes some time, travelling from Poland to Antarctica. First, we flew from Warsaw to London and from there to Buenos Aires. At the Argentine capital we took a plane to Tierra del Fuego, to the southernmost port in the world, Ushuaia.
There the graceful sounding of Grigory Micheew, a vessel from St. Petersburg, was already waiting for us. Transportation to the South Pole, like the North, is dominated by the Russians. Typically, instead of luxury units resilient research ships are used here. The one we boarded was also previously used for research purposes, had a strengthened hull, immune to danger from the wandering masses of ice, and was designed to operate at very low temperatures. Mosses and lichens grow on the coasts of Antarctica, but there is not enough to feed the animals. Despite this, the snow-free shores and the sea next to them are filled with interesting fauna, peculiar to the region. With the abundance of plankton, species such as seals, fish, penguins and various species of birds are able to forage. Both the flora and fauna of Antarctica require special protection, and so the exploration of these areas is a subject to strict rules. The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), formed by expeditions’ organisers, monitors tourism in the area. During the expedition there is a strict non-interference in nature principle, and all guides make sure it is respected, repeating the special instructions from the IAATO rules on daily basis. After two days of travel, the shores of Antarctica emerged in the view. We have our 'baptism of fire' in the famous Drake Passage, where even the most experienced sailors succumb to seasickness. Our team was, unfortunately, not spared. Finally we get to Graham Land, to an abandoned base. Along the way, admire we the huddles of penguins, teams of seals and pods of whales.
Of course, we went to Antarctica in order to dive. It is not easy in this area, but after our experience at the North Pole, we more or less knew what to expect. We were well prepared also in terms of equipment. Descent into the water takes place from boats. We had a rehearsed procedure and our tried and tested Apeks 50 and 100 frost-resistant regulators. No diving here can be predictable, because the weather conditions are frequently changing and the ice floe is in constant motion, often forcing changes in the route and plans. There is also no access to decompression chambers anywhere on site.
Nevertheless, the weather was favourable during the day and we dived several times. We were obviously diving in the dry suits already tried at the North Pole, indispensable in such circumstances, because the water is icy cold. The temperature is -1 Centigrade and near the icebergs drops to -3 Centigrade. The water, though dark blue on the surface, becomes intensely turquoise down below.
Diving near the icebergs is one of the most exciting parts of the expedition. This can be done only in the vicinity of the very stable ones, preferably those that touch bottom. The ice illuminates the water surrounding it giving an impression of a luminous halo. The surface, with its many holes, resembles the surface of a golf ball.
Diving at the rock walls is also an unforgettable experience. Big blocks and boulders are covered with giant kelp algae in green and red. In this thicket fish and shellfish sneak through and at the bottom move the starfish, the size of two hands, in all different colors.
Diving in the company of seals and penguins also leaves a lasting impression. In Antarctica, there are several species of seals: Elephant seals (or sea elephants), Weddell seals, and Leopard seals. The latter are considered the most aggressive and an adult can be up to 3 meters in length and weigh about 300 kilograms. They hunt mainly on penguins, but apparently there were also several attacks on humans.
We also went to a cove in which nineteenth-century whalers slaughtered their victims. The massive ribs and vertebrae resting at the bottom of the slightly turbid water are electrifying.
After 10 days we return to the port of Ushuaia. We appreciate the Argentinean cuisine, where beef is the king and there is great red wine aplenty. The next day we are on our way back to Buenos Aires, where the sun greets us (finally!) and the temperature is more kind to man. From there we flew to London and later back to Warsaw.